Corset/Stays
Date: Winter ’24-’25
Fit model: Toni Carton
Location: Yale Costume Shop
Mentor: Mary Zihel
I began by looking through several extant corset reference books and choosing one to make.
The one I initially chose did not include a pattern, so I found one of a similar shape and modified the boning structure to be closer to the original corset and to eliminate excess weight because of using metal bones rather than the extant garments whale bone or reed bones.
After getting measurements from my fit model I graded my pattern and made the first mockup.
I then made the necessary adjustments to the pattern and cut my pieces from coutil and my fashion fabric and flatlined them.
From there I constructed the corset and added temporary lacing panels for the fitting.
At the first fabric fitting (left), I determined the armscye had to be lowered, neckline had to be raised, and the back panels were narrowed to properly cinch.
The next fitting (right) resulted in knowing where the straps would attach and finalized the pattern.
Putting in the lining and busk was the next step, followed by adding the grommets and the piping to the top of the corset. This step finalized the garment.
